Hurricane Advance Preparations

Prepare an Evacuation Plan

Evacuation Map Go though the TV12 Hurricane Checklist  Put together supplies. If you need to leave, you will want to be able to pack quickly.

Identify ahead of time where to go if told to evacuate. Choose several places --> a shelter, a motel, or a friend's home. Click here to download NC DOT Evacuation Map.

Keep handy the telephone numbers of your evacuation shelter as well as a road map of your locality.  You may need to take alternative or unfamiliar routes if roads are closed or clogged.

Watch TV12 or listen to local radio stations or NOAA weather radio for evacuation instructions.  If you are advised to evacuate, do so immediately. 

Identify your important documents - passports, wills, contracts, insurance papers, household inventory, car titles, deeds, leases, phone number list and tax information - so that they can be placed in your safe deposit box before the storm. Otherwise, you'll need to have a safe, dry place for them.


Your House

Your HouseGet shutters, siding or plywood in place on windows and begin moving items inside.

If you're not covering your windows, DON'T tape them. Tape will not stop windows from breaking.

Move vehicles into garages if possible; otherwise park them away from trees. Try to move them close to houses to lessen damage from flying debris.

Move grills and patio furniture into the house or garage.

Remove a 6-foot section on each side of patio screens to let the wind pass through. Simply pull out the rubber tubing.

If you remove your roof antenna, unplug it from the set first.

Remove roof turbines and cap the holes.

Secure anything inside your home that can be thrown around. Tape or tie cabinets. Remove items from counter and table tops. Close closet doors.

If you have natural gas, utility officials say you should leave it on so you can cook after the storm. Safety valves on most water, pool and spa heaters will shut off the gas supply if winds blow out the pilot light.

Fill your bathtub and water bottles.

Secure and brace external doors, especially double doors.

Move as many valuables as possible off the floor to limit flooding damage. Move furniture away from windows or cover it with plastic.

Fill out an inventory list to use later for insurance claims.

Move your TV, battery-operated radio, flashlights and food to the room where you're going to spend the hurricane.

Turn off all but one or two lights. If the power fails, you don't want to cause a surge when it is restored. Do not shut off the main breaker.

In the last hours, stay inside. Being on the roads will interfere with people fleeing to emergency shelters, and conditions will deteriorate rapidly.

CHECK YOUR ROOF 

Types of RoofsWhat kind of roof do you have? Homes with gabled roofs are more likely to suffer hurricane damage than homes with hip roofs because winds push into the flat ends of gabled roofs but pass over the steep pitch of hip roofs. If your house has a gabled roof, check in your attic for diagonal 2-by-4s between the gable end and the roofing trusses. Gable-end bracing in an 'X' pattern makes the roof stronger. You should also have truss bracing running the length of the roof. Install it if you don't have it.

CHECK YOUR GARAGE DOOR 

Two-car garage doors can cause problems during hurricanes. They are so large they can wobble in high winds and pull out of their tracks or collapse. Horizontal braces make garage doors stronger. You may want to have a garage door expert check your door for wind strength.

CHECK THE NAILS AND THE 
       HURRICANE STRAPS ON YOUR ROOF 

Metal Roof StrapsHurricane straps help hold the roof to the walls. In the attic, inspect for straps of galvanized metal.


Go in the attic and see how well the roof sheathing, often plywood, is attached. If most of the large nails or staples coming through the sheathing have missed the
Nailstrusses, your roof sheathing is improperly installed.

 
 
 
 
CHECK YOUR DOUBLE-ENTRY DOORS

Most double doors have a fixed door. Check to see how the fixed door is secured at the top and bottom. The bolts that secure most doors are not strong enough. Some door manufacturers provide reinforcing bolt kits that cost $10 to $50.

GET AN EXPERT OPINION 

You can't peel back your roof or remove the walls to see how your house was built. The safest option is to hire someone to inspect it for you.

HIRE A STRUCTURAL ENGINEER, 
        CONTRACTOR OR ROOFER. 

Ask the person to look not only at the roof but also the concrete block construction - are the blocks reinforced properly with vertical rods? - and see that the foundation, walls and roof are properly connected to each other.

CHECK THE REST OF THE HOUSE 

Buy caps for your roof turbines so when the storm threatens you can remove the turbine and cap the hole. Winds of more than 100 mph will pull turbines off, leaving a hole for rain and wind to enter your attic. Buy caps for any removable vent pipe that protrudes from the roof. Do a careful walk-through around your property for anything that can be secured now and do so. Look for loose rain gutters and shutters. Tie down sheds, swing sets and other large items.

COMMON ROOF AND WALL DEFECTS
       FOUND AFTER HURRICANES

Nails used to hold plywood to roof trusses were too far apart. Support for gable end trusses were too weak. Steel reinforcement rods for walls were nonexistent or insufficient. Hurricane straps meant to hold roofs, walls and floors together were insufficient or gone. Roofs were properly secured to the walls with hurricane straps, but plywood was not properly nailed down. A standard 4-by-8-foot sheet should have about 38 nails.


Safe Room

Emergency planners recommend designating an interior room of your house as a place of refuge during a hurricane.

  • Figure out now where you'll huddle and make sure there's enough space for everyone - and a quick way out if necessary.
  • Select a secure, windowless (but ventilated) place. It can be a standard, 6-by-8-foot or 6-by-6-foot utility room, bathroom or walk-in closet.
  • Select a backup site nearby in case the first one doesn't hold.

Safe Room PlanIf your house is unlikely to flood but doesn't have a suitable place for your family, you might want to build one. For most, a project like this will require hiring a contractor and cost hundreds of dollars or more.

The room would need solidly reinforced walls, a solid roof (perhaps a 4- to 6-inch concrete slab), steel door, ventilation and some sort of escape hatch if a door gets blocked. It's crucial the roof be securely anchored to the walls and the walls to the floor or the whole room can be compromised.

You could save some money by placing the room in a corner of the house so that two of the walls could be part of the heavier exterior, although they would have to be reinforced more than normal.


Pets

PetsMake arrangements for your pets as part of your household disaster planning. If you must evacuate your home, it's won't always be possible to take your pets with you. For health and space reasons, pets will not be allowed in public emergency shelters. If, as a last resort, you have to leave your pets behind, make sure you have a plan to ensure their care.

Contact your local animal shelter, humane society, veterinarian or emergency management office for information on caring for pets in an emergency. Find out if there will be any shelters set up to take pets in an emergency. Also, see if your veterinarian will accept your pet in an emergency.

Decide on safe locations in your house where you could leave your pet in an emergency.

  • Consider easy to clean areas such as utility areas or bathrooms and rooms with access to a supply of fresh water.
  • Avoid choosing rooms with hazards such as windows, hanging plants or pictures in large frames.
  • In case of flooding, the location should have access to high counters that pets can escape to.
  • Set up two separate locations if you have dogs and cats.

Buy a pet carrier that allows your pet to stand up and turn around inside.
Train your pet to become comfortable with the carrier. Use a variety of training methods such as feeding it in the carrier or placing a favorite toy or blanket inside.

If your pet is on medication or a special diet, find out from your veterinarian what you should do in case you have to leave it alone for several days. Try and get an extra supply of medications.

Make sure your pet has a properly fitted collar that includes current license and rabies tags.

  • Including an identification tag that has your name, address, and phone number.
  • If your dog normally wears a chain link "choker" collar, have a leather or nylon collar available if you have to leave him alone for several days.

Keep your pet's shots current and know where the records are.
Most kennels require proof of current rabies and distemper vaccinations before accepting a pet.

Contact motels and hotels in communities outside of your area and find out if they will accept pets in an emergency.

When assembling emergency supplies for the household, include items for pets.

  • Extra food (The food should be dry and relatively unappealing to prevent overheating. Store the food in sturdy containers.)
  • Kitty litter
  • Large capacity self-feeder and water dispenser
  • Extra medications
TRAINED GUIDE DOGS 

In most states, trained guide dogs for the blind, hearing impaired or disabled will be allowed to stay in emergency shelters with their owners. Check with local emergency management officials for more information.


Trees and Plants

Trees & PlantsClear your yard of loose objects that can become missiles. Move potted plants, hanging baskets, seedlings and cuttings inside.

Remove swings and tarps from swing sets. Tie down anything you can't bring in. Check again for loose rain gutters or moldings.

Stake small or newly planted trees to anchor them, tying them at various heights on the trunk. Pass ties through pieces of old garden hose to prevent trunk scarring and leave slack for some movement.

If you have time, try to prune shrubs and vines to one-half or more of their height to prevent permanent damage.

Check trees for any dead or broken branches or those sticking straight up or V-shaped. Cut them back to a main branch. Then thin the tree enough to let the wind pass through. Don't trim roots.

Watch for power lines as you trim.

Leaving trimmings at the curb will make them more dangerous than if you'd left them on the tree. Tie them and take them inside or remove them to where they won't be a danger.

Try to strip coconuts (ok, so this is mostly for Florida), but don't bother with citrus or other fruit. It will take up valuable time.


Swimming Pools

Leave the water level alone. If you drain it more than a few feet below normal and the ground becomes saturated, the pool's shell could pop out of the ground, even if it's concrete. In addition, damage from projectiles is greater to exposed pool surfaces.

Turn off the power to the pump motor, lights and other equipment at the circuit box.

If the motor is exposed and you live in a flood-prone area, remove the pump and store it indoors. Otherwise, try to wrap it with a waterproof cover and tie securely.

Remove automatic pool cleaners, pool blankets and covers and take them inside.

Super-chlorinate or double the chemicals you normally add to reduce contamination and infestation by mosquitoes and other insects.

Stock up on chemicals; you'll need to "shock'' the pool after the storm.

Don't throw patio furniture in the pool because chemicals will harm or ruin most furniture, and furniture can scratch the pool's sides and bottom.


Condos and Apartments

Condos & ApartmentsAssociations must allow owners to install shutters but may restrict them by style and appearance. Associations may also order you to install shutters, laminated glass or window film. If you disagree, try to change rules now; you can't call a meeting when the storm is approaching.

Condominium and apartment dwellers near the beach will be ordered to evacuate. If you are farther inland and not in a flood zone, you're safer staying put.

Remove all loose items from the porch, patio or sun deck. Close and lock windows, sliding glass doors and shutters. Wedge patio doors.

If you're going to ride out the storm in your apartment, choose a room with the fewest windows or a hallway.

Power can fail before the storm, so elevators won't work. Memorize exits and how many steps they are from your apartment, in case you have to find them in the dark.

Be prepared to move to a lower floor. The higher up you are, the stronger the winds.

Power can fail even before the storm, so avoid elevators as the storm approaches. A power failure also could leave you in the dark, so memorize the exits from your building and how many steps they are from your apartment.


Installing Shutters

Before you buy any shutter, impact-resistant window or protective film, call your local building department with the name and product control number (available through the salesperson) to make sure it meets code.

ACCORDION-STYLE SHUTTERS 

Accordion-StyleThese custom-made shutters are permanently installed and can be closed in minutes. Especially good for sliding-glass doors or townhouses and homes that have no garages for shutter storage.

Shutters that fold up accordion style are good for those who don't want to put up storm shutters each time a storm threatens. Permanently installed, accordion shutters can be closed in minutes.

Because they are custom made for each window and door, they are more expensive than removable panels. And although they fold up fairly compactly, they are visible year-round.

Prices, installed, are about $15 per square foot.

REMOVABLE PANELS 

Removable PanelsAvailable in aluminum, steel and clear polycarbonate. The corrugated panels are lightweight, but they take time to install and require storage space.

After plywood, removable panels are the least expensive form of hurricane protection for windows. The corrugated panels are lightweight and fit into one another, making them much easier to install and store than plywood. They also last longer. If plywood gets wet, it warps and rots - the panels do not.

The drawbacks include lengthy installation time, storage and organization. The first installation can take a day or two. For each opening, you must drill holes for the top headers and bottom sills that the panels fit into, as well as for the bolts along the sides.

After that, you can leave the sills and headers up (many people paint them to blend into the walls), or you can remove them. But even if you leave the sills and headers up, the panels must be numbered and matched to the windows - otherwise, the holes won't line up.

If you live in a subdivision or gated community, check with your homeowners association. Some associations require that hurricane panels be removed within a certain number of days after the storm or threat of storm has passed.

The panels are available in different materials - aluminum, steel and even a clear product marketed under the names Clear Shield or Lexan, among others.

The clear panels are sold through independent dealers as well as home improvement centers. Besides allowing light to pass through, their polycarbonate construction allows them to bend and then pop back into place. That could justify their price, which is roughly double the aluminum panels.

If you use steel panels, however, note that some of them must be doubled to protect against 110-mph winds. And there are different gauges of aluminum. Lainhart & Potter recommends only the tougher, .062-gauge aluminum panels, which are good for openings up to 11 feet, 3 inches - about 2 feet higher than the .040 gauge panels.

AUTOMATIC, ROLLING SHUTTERS 

Automatic ShuttersPress a button and - presto, your shutters roll down. But they're expensive and the huge casings can be unattractive.

Wouldn't it be nice just to press a button and have the shutters come down? Or, if you're out of town, call up your computer and have it do the task? That is possible - if you have a big budget and have planned ahead for installation and wiring.

Rolling shutters are the easiest, quickest way to secure your home.

But their price keeps them out of reach for most homeowners. An electronic rolling shutter for a 6-foot sliding door, for instance, can cost nearly $2,000 (meeting the impact testing of the new code).

After price, the biggest drawback has been the huge casings that house the shutter.

But if you are building a new home, the casing can be set inside the wall with a panel for access, experts say.

COLONIAL, BAHAMA AWNINGS 

Colonial, Bahama AwningsBahamas are easy to open and close. They're usually made of aluminum. They need to be checked regularly to make sure the fasteners aren't rusted.

Like the accordions, these two types of shutters are permanently attached, but generally are less expensive than accordions. A 3-by-4-foot Bahama shutter costs around $200, but price varies according to material. The top-hinged Bahamas cover the window but let in light because they are slatted. It's easy to loosen the nuts and swing the awnings down flat against the wall when a storm approaches.

Colonials are mounted on the outer sides of the windows and swing closed, fastening in the middle.

Both need to be checked regularly to make sure fasteners are not rusted and move freely. Bahama awnings usually are made of aluminum; Colonials usually are wood and need to be painted regularly to avoid decay.

While the Bahama shutters are fine for  ranch-style houses, they are not architecturally compatible for new homes with arched windows. Nor are they appropriate for sliding or patio doors. Colonials need room on either side of the window or single-width door.

LAMINATED GLASS 

Impact-resistant glass uses a layer of PVB (polyvinyl butyral) laminated between two layers of glass (similar to a car windshield).

"Like anything else, the laminated glass is part of a recipe - it goes into the window and the window has to pass the test," said consultant Paul Beers of Glazing Consultants Inc.  Because laminated glass windows cost up to double a regular window, it is an expensive protection for existing homes. "The cost of window with laminated glass is about equal to a window plus shutter," Beers said.

Impact-resistant film can be applied to existing windows, but the applied film does not meet the new hurricane-protection testing standards.


GARAGE DOORS 

If you don't protect your garage door, you've missed the largest opening in your house. If you don't have a wind-loaded garage door, you can buy vertical support bars. Cost is about $300 for a single door, $500-$600 for a double door.

FRONT DOORS 

Experts say the knob, deadbolt and doorjamb won't keep out winds. They suggest adding bolts at the top and bottom.

INTERIOR DOORS 

Create a safe room. Determine where your family would take cover. The interior room should offer some ventilation (but no windows) and should have a solid door.

SHEDS 

Tie down sheds, swing sets, fountains - use straps or rope and attach to anchors secured (if possible) in concrete or buried deep in the ground.


How Much Is Too Much

Not everyone thinks hurricane protection needs to withstand the impact of a 2-by-4 shot through a cannon at 35 miles per hour.

While the missile test was designed to simulate roof tiles flying through the air during 110-mile-per-hour winds, some experts say old-fashioned shutters and even plywood are adequate.

"You do need window protection, but 10 to 15 percent over the resistance of the present (window) glaze is adequate. Anything above that is overkill," said Dr. Dale Perry, professor of architecture at Texas A&M University. He did studies for Texas' Department of Insurance to determine what level of hurricane protection is needed.

That means "something like nominal plywood," would be adequate, Perry said, adding that the Southern Building Code Congress International's missile test is a "very severe requirement."

It's also very expensive, which is why the Southern Building Code Congress is considering allowing 7/16-inch plywood as an alternative.

"It doesn't make sense to boilerplate the windows" with super-strength shutters when the roof could blow off at a much lower wind rate, Perry said.

"We respectfully disagree with that," said Sam Miller, vice president of the Florida Insurance Council, a Tallahassee-based lobbying and public affairs association for the insurance industry.

"There obviously is a middle ground somewhere, but right now we believe that the Dade and Broward standards are not excessive and we absolutely support them," Miller added. "What's clear since Hurricane Andrew is the standards that were in effect in most areas just weren't adequate."

CHECK CODE

Some products advertised as hurricane protection may not meet the requirements of your municipality's building code. Before you buy any shutter, impact-resistant window or protective film, call your local building department with the name and product control number (available through the salesperson) to make sure it meets code.


Preparing Your Mobile Home

Strap Frame TieIf you live in a mobile home, you will be ordered to evacuate. Over-the-top straps, secured by anchors on either side, and frame ties merely keep them from tipping over.

If your home was built before 1976, the home and tie-downs were designed for winds up to about 80 mph; a storm becomes a hurricane at 74 mph. If it was built after 1976, it's supposed to hold, with tie-downs, in winds up to 110 mph.

Organize your mobile home community to plan for the storm. Select a captain. Make a list of where residents will go and telephone numbers of friends or relatives. Set up a "buddy system" and assign able-bodied people to make sure others get out OK. Make sure everyone has made arrangements for transportation. Close and lock shutters and secure other items attached to the home before leaving. Turn off and disconnect water lines, gas lines and bottles, electricity and sewer lines. Go door to door to make sure everyone's out.







Preparing Your Boat

SECURE YOUR BOAT EARLY
  • A garage or a storage building inland.
  • A "hurricane hole" - a small protected body of water, such as one of the small coves naturally protected by trees and vegetation.
  • A well-protected marina or dock. By law, marinas cannot kick your boat out after a hurricane watch or warning is issued. But they can dictate the kind of cleats, ropes or other measures you use.
GETTING READY 

Once you have selected an inland refuge, make a practice run to make sure the water is deep enough and bridges - fixed, draw, high and low - work for your boat. Tides may be higher before the storm.

Many banks along waterways are private property. Get permission, preferably in writing, to protect both parties.

Check the condition of cleats and dock pilings. If you will be securing your lines to a tree, look for one with a good root system.

If you don't have an automatic switch for your bilge pump, get one.

If you plan to weigh down your small boat with water on shore, check with the manufacturer to make sure this will not damage it or the trailer.

IN-WATER BOATS

If you're taking the boat out of the area, leave well before the storm - perhaps two or three days in advance and no later than when the watch is issued.

Boat Tie-upOnce an evacuation is under way, emergency managers may limit bridge openings to speed up evacuation of barrier islands. At some point, emergency officials will make the call to lock down bridges for their protection; you may not get much warning.

Don't anchor or tie up anywhere near a floodgate. When the gate opens to allow water out, your boat will be crushed or sunk.

Use lines on both sides. Use double bow and stern lines. Use spring lines fore and aft.

Boat tie up Top ViewDon't tie up too close to the sea wall. Take into account the water level could rise 10 feet to 20 feet above normal.

Sink ground anchors on each bank - two for the stern, two for the bow. Set them so the lines form an X. Wrap the line several times around cleats or pilings before tying off on the ground anchor.

Try to install fenders or even tires. Black marks are better than a hole in your boat.

Leave just enough fuel in your boat to get it back to its normal berth after the storm; the extra fuel could catch fire or spill and pollute waterways.

Set the bilge pump on automatic. Check drains.

Boat tie up SeawallDisconnect shore power to your boat and close all intake valves below the water line. Seal hatches, ports, windows, doors and vents with duct tape.

Remove tops, sails and exterior canvas and all electronic and other valuable equipment, as well as insurance papers and other important documents.

Don't stay in your boat, no matter how secure you feel it is.

BOATS ON LAND 

Remove outboard engine if possible. Partially fill boat with water to weigh it down, within limits set by the manufacturer.

Pick a site away from trees and power lines. Do not park between buildings, where wind tunnels can develop. Remove electrical equipment.

Use wooden blocks at the trailer's wheels. Deflate the tires. Tie the boat and the trailer down to something secure. Ground anchors are best and can be purchased if there is time.

If you don't have a trailer, fill the boat with water and tie it to the most secure thing you can find in your yard. If the boat is very small, turn it upside down and lash it to the ground.


Preparing Your Horses and Large Animals

HorsesLivestock should be boarded in barns strong enough to withstand a full storm surge. Otherwise, they may be better off in a fenced pasture.

IDENTIFICATION 

You can buy plastic bands like those worn by hospital patients for horses and other animals. Area tack shops have the order forms. Other options include shave your phone number onto your horse's neck or weaving a luggage tag into its tail.

Take a photo of yourself with your horse or animal and write a detailed description of it on an index card. Keep this information secure. This will help prove the animal is yours if it gets loose.

STAYING 

Fill large plastic garbage cans with fresh water and secure the lids with elastic cord. Keep at least a two-week supply of fresh water and feed on hand.

Clear your yard of branches and anything else that could blow free. Everything that isn't nailed down should be.


Generators

SHOPPING TIPS 
  • You must look over your home and decide if you want to invest in a generator. It could be more hassle, expense and danger than it is worth. In most cases you can't run your air conditioner on it.
  • Terms like amps and horsepower are meaningless to most people. Ask the dealer specifically how many watts the generator will put out and for how long and how big a load it can handle.
  • You could spend around $350 for a simple 2,400-watt model, $600 for 5,000 watts or thousands for an industrial-strength model. A television uses 300 watts, a freezer 330, a water heater 3,000. Compare brands and models. Dealers can provide manufacturers' toll-free numbers for technical questions.
  • Make sure you have the right cords and connectors. You don't want your generator sitting useless.
  • An auxiliary fuel tank is a good idea.
  • Don't fill fuel tanks until right before the storm; keeping a lot of fuel in a hot garage all summer isn't safe.
  • Most starters use rope pulls, but if yours uses a battery, make sure it's kept charged.
  • The time to buy is not after the storm. While most stores will be selling at a fair price, none will be having a sale. Some will be closed or destroyed. Out-of-state people are likely to bring generators on the back of trucks and sell them for whatever you'll pay.
SAFETY 

Connect items with electrical cords directly to generator. Make sure cords are not damaged and don't lie in water.

Don't connect the generator to your home's wiring system. If wires are damaged or wet you can be electrocuted or start a fire. And power can travel through supply lines, electrocuting people in adjacent homes or crews restoring power.

If you're determined to connect to your wiring system, consult an electrician in advance to make sure you have the proper transfer switch; this will keep power from backing up into the power lines or into other homes.

Never operate a generator inside a home. Keep it outside, ventilated, but out of the sun. Excess heat can cause fuel to explode or flame up.

Never overload generators. The instructions will tell you the maximum load.


Chainsaws

Should You Get A Chainsaw?

If you've never used a chain saw, your first option after a storm should be to hire someone. Otherwise, learn how to use one now - when there are no pressures or added concerns such as dangling power lines.

ChainsawsWARNING!!! - A chain saw is a 12- to 15-pound, hand-held power saw that can kick, lurch, jump and snap back if the chain breaks. Get training from a professional. Watch others at work. You may want to rent a saw for a day to train.

Some shopping and safety tips:

SHOPPING TIPS 
  • First determine that you need one. If you don't have large trees that could fall over in a storm, you could do a lot with a cordless or gas-powered trimmer. Emergency or volunteer crews also will be coming through neighborhoods to help.
  • Don't get an electric chain saw. Gasoline-powered models sell for $100 to $300.
  • Don't use the length of the guide bar - the part extending from the saw body around which the chain is wrapped - to determine power. Bar length is a factor for the width of whatever you're cutting. If the bar's too long, you'll be unnecessarily sacrificing cost, flexibility, ease of maintenance and safety. A 16-inch bar can handle a 30-inch tree; it's probably all you'll need.
  • Look for engines ranging from 2 1/2 to 3 cubic inches or 45 to 60 cubic centimeters.
  • Look for lots of safety features. One is a chain brake, which stops the chain if the guide bar strikes something hard and kicks back.
  • Try not to keep fuel in the saw; fuel can go stale and clog engine parts.
KNOW YOUR OIL 
  • Engine oil: Most saws use 2-cycle engines that require you to mix gasoline with proper oil.
  • Bar and chain oil: A lubricant that keeps the chain from freezing up or breaking during heavy work. Keep plenty. These specialized oils will be impossible to find.
CHAINSAW SAFETY

Wear goggles or safety glasses.

Wear gloves to cover sweaty, slippery hands, help you handle the saw and prevent blisters.

Use earplugs; the saw will be loud.

Get a hard hat to protect your head from falling limbs.

Wear chaps or other sturdy reinforcement over your pants. In an accident, the fabric will jam into the saw, limiting but not preventing serious injury. In plain jeans or shorts, you could lose a leg or bleed to death. They're worth the $50 to $80 asking price.

When cutting up debris, look carefully for live wires that may be tangled in branches.

Do not cut up power poles even if they're in the way. They're the power company's property. Lines may still be live. And some fallen poles may be pulling power lines and guy wires taut; when you cut them, those wires or a piece of the pole can fly back at you.


COMMON QUESTIONS

Q: Should I turn off the electrical power to my house before the hurricane arrives?
A: No. Leave the power on. You may unplug most appliances, but keep your refrigerator and freezer plugged in and set to the coldest setting.

Q: Should I shut the gas off to my house at the main?
A: Shut gas off to individual appliances inside the home if accessible. Do not turn it off at the outside meter.

Q: Should I leave one window partly open, as with a tornado?
A: No. It will only allow wind and water into your home to do more damage.

Q: What kind of tape should I buy for my windows?
A: Tape is practically useless. Put your money into plywood instead. If you want to tape the windows after that, go with inexpensive masking tape. Strapping tape or duct tape won't stop a hurricane.

Q: I live in a development with a great deal of construction. Who is responsible for removing the construction materials before the storm?
A: The developer is responsible for securing the construction site.

 

 

 

 

 

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